Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Emma

Tuesday, June 18th, 2013

Reunions.

Do you go back?

I’ll be honest. I have not been a great Re-uner  myself. But I thought I should give this one a try.

40 years.

Emma looks great. In fact, it crossed my mind while I was there that the Emma Willard campus is more beautiful than we are. Almost.

It is an ‘interesting’ experience, heading back to a boarding school you attended 40 years ago. A school where you spent three years of your teenaged life, from ages 14 to 17.

14 to 17. Yes, in many ways we grown and capable, and yet we were so, so young, looking back. High school, and boarding school, and the ’70’s. It was such a period of transition; years of angst and empowerment both.

Our immediate context was hippies to prototypical preppies. Landlubber jeans and bell bottoms, to painter’s pants and Levis 501’s. Hiking boots, clogs and Dr. Scholl’s to Kork-Ease’s platform sandals. Flannel shirts and sweater vests to Fair Isle sweaters. Indian print t-shirts, and embroidered peasant blouses. 13 button wool sailor pants from the Army Navy Surplus stores, and 50’s circle skirts from Goodwill. Layla, The Dead and Bread. The Firesign Theater. All ‘vintage’ now, as we are.

(Not to mention The Vietnam War, The Pentagon Papers, Nixon in China, the voting age to 18, Watergate, and Roe v. Wade.)

In those years, you knew your classmates by the childhood nicknames they no longer use. You have to remind yourself, case by case, if you’re allowed to call out “Kitty”, or “Bucko”, or “Dimmie.” Sometimes you are allowed, because you knew them when…

But here’s the amazing thing, having just spent three days and two nights in the company of those supposedly vanished girls: we were then who we are now. The consistency of personalities and outlook is astonishing to me.

The optimists are optimistic. The critics are critical. The elusive are still pretty darn hard to pin down.

Here’s the thing, ladies. You are great company. As you were then, as you are now. You are honest. You are brave. There was sadness and joy in the sharing.  And empathy, understanding, encouragement, approval, and safety. There was love.

I enjoyed my time with you.

I may turn into a re-uner after all.

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Elsewhere

Sunday, May 26th, 2013

Sometimes, when you have been though more than you’d like to admit, it is important to go elsewhere. It was time to see more of the world, beyond Boston.

I was definitely due for change of scene.

New York was a great beginning.

And I kept on going.

I was charmed all over again by the variety of comestibles on offer at the Lancaster County Farmer’s Market. I love a good Farmer’s Market, don’t you? And our local market, in Copley Square, has not yet opened for business this year.

At the Farmers’ Market in Pennsylvania you can count on Clyde Weaver’s cheese selection,

and a rainbow cornucopia of seasonal vegetables,

and an eye opening selection of proteins…

Once we had finished with the groceries, it was time to sample the other local delights of spring. A trip to the Jenkins Arboretum to enjoy their deservedly famous azalea and rhododendron walks.

It was late afternoon by the time we arrived, and the sun was shining through the pale green lace of the newly emerging oak trees overhead. Pathways beckoned through the forest of azaleas. One could honestly say there were sun-dappled byways…

where the language of flowers was spoken.

We even stopped to lean on the split-rail fencing around the pond at the bottom of the hill, to remember how the children used to love to come here to watch (and to count) the sunbathing turtles.

I guess some things never change.

There’s nothing like a lovely walk in the spring woodland, elsewhere.

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Botanical Travels

Saturday, March 30th, 2013

Another sunny, chilly day in Naples, Florida. We headed to the Naples Botanical Garden, and proceeded to tour the world.

We started out in the Brazilian Garden,

a technicolor marvel, glowing in the Florida sun,

and a wonderful tribute to ‘the father of modern landscape architecture’, Brazilian naturalist and  landscape artist Roberto Burle Marx. (A fact I learned while touring this garden.)

From Brazil, on to the Caribbean.

From the Caribbean, we wandered through a sea of grass and encountered a series of circular mysteries, from this ritualistic water landing,

to a ring of Saw Palmettos, planted four deep, and reminiscent of a natural Stonehenge,

all enclosing a vividly colored circular garden known as the Wildflower Meadow.

From here we traveled on to Asia,

where we found both landscapes and artifacts to contemplate.

A watery Zen meditation….

and an exotic vista.


The local wildlife seemed very happy indeed, among plants of every nation.

So were we….

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Playing Tourist

Wednesday, March 27th, 2013

We went on  holiday in Naples, Florida recently. (There’s my 12 years in the UK showing up again – as word choice: ‘went on holiday’ versus ‘had a vacation’.) Anyway, it felt like a much needed holiday.

We left the lingering snows of Boston and New York behind, for Florida’s white bleaches and blue waters. And, drat, for Florida’s cold (for Florida) temperatures. Yes, 54 degrees in March in Naples is pretty darn cold. Ironically, that same 54 degrees in Boston in March would be welcome indeed this year.

So when the temperature is in the 50’s and 60’s in Florida you might want to walk the beach, and explore the Town Pier, but you’re probably not going to want to pretend to sunbathe. I did get myself into the Gulf for a brief swim one afternoon. The verdict? Brrrr.

Luckily the beaches are beautiful, the blues of water and sky inspirational after a New England winter, and the shell-strewn sands still magical even without small children to gather shells with.

The sandpipers continue to zig and zag along the sea front with frenzied steps – ‘little birds in a hurry’, my sister calls them.

It is charming, and there is still a touch of wildness to the Gulf beaches.

Luckily there are other things to do around Naples when the winds are brisk and the Gulf waters more reminiscent of Maine than Florida. So we decided to go exploring beyond the shops, restaurants, and golf clubs of downtown Naples.

We decided to take a day to play tourist to Florida’s under-appreciated history.

Before Florida was a resort destination it was a wild and rough natural world. Early inhabitants traveled through the jungle of mangroves and rivers of grass on the waterways, instead of highways. When you visit Everglades National Park you can still experience the vastness of this original wilderness. It is unique, both beautiful and harsh; it needs protecting.

The early settlers in this watery landscape had to be tough individuals to survive. Down south of Everglades City, on Chokoloskee Island, sits Smallwood’s Store. This historic general store, Post Office and trading post, operated by Ted Smallwood and his family since 1906, bears witness to the life of Florida’s traders, trappers and the families of early inhabitants of these islands.

Customers arrived at Smallwood’s by boat, bringing pelts and artifacts to trade,

departing with essential supplies and the occasional luxury.

Life must have been a challenge for the Smallwood family,

who operated the Post Office and Trading Post and General Store, and who lived, slept, ate and schooled their children on the premises for years.

Smallwood’s Store was also the scene of a sensational murder, the subject of author and naturalist Peter Matthiessen’s outstanding book, Killing Mr. Watson. The novel tells the story of Edgar J. Watson, a prominent and successful local farmer whose neighbors had the habit of turning up dead, and who was gunned down in 1920 by more than 20 armed men, his ‘neighbors’, from the assembled community.

Gorged on local history, flora and fauna, we headed back to Everglades City, for lunch at the famous, if slightly down-at-the-heels, Rod and Gun Club.

On the menu:

I settled for Garlic Shrimp and romaine salad.

Oh yes, and a piece of Key Lime Pie.

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Hedgemony

Wednesday, September 19th, 2012

If “Hegemony” means:

\hi-ˈje-mə-nē, -ˈge-; ˈhe-jə-ˌmō-nē\

Definition of HEGEMONY

1 : preponderant influence or authority over others : domination <battled for hegemony in Asia>
2 : the social, cultural, ideological, or economic influence exerted by a dominant group
Can “Hedgemony” be said to mean “The influence or authority of Hedges?”
Apparently people love hedges, especially privet hedges.
Interestingly (I was going to write ‘weirdly’), one of the most visited blog entries I have written is on privet hedges in Nantucket.
So this summer while I was back in Nantucket, I thought I would keep a photographer’s eye out for really good examples of privet hedges.
How about the M. C. Escher-like optical illusion stepped hedge above?
There are some real doozies in Nantucket.
It helps that these hedges are beautifully maintained, trimmed regularly by experienced gardeners with extending ladders and electric clippers on long poles.
I love a good privet hedge.
Don’t you?
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Penny Candy Too

Friday, September 14th, 2012

Have a sweet tooth?

Me too.

In the summer, when in Nantucket, I know how to slake that candy thirst.

Repair to Force 5 Water Sports.

Walk through the store, past walls and standing racks of bathing suits and flip flops,

past boogie boards, and skim boards, and surfboards, past life vests, back packs and back-to-school shoes, to the secret room at the back.

The penny candy room.

Take a basket. Come on, man, make some decisions.

Not so easy, huh?

Now, stop at the small painted wood table by the door to ‘the room’. Let the amazingly capable kid cashier (Is she 12 even?) spill out the items in your basket and total it all up on the old-fashioned adding machine.

Pay up.

Take your white paper bag in your hand, exit ‘the room’, find a quiet spot, and enjoy.

Mmmmm….

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R-E-S-P-E-C-T Your Local Farmers’ Market

Sunday, September 2nd, 2012

I have been traveling around quite a lot this summer. On my travels I have visited several Farmers’ Markets near and far, like the Byward Market in Ottawa,

and Bartlett’s Farm Market and the Bartlett’s Farm Truck in Nantucket,

the Lancaster County Farmers’ Market outside of Philadelphia, and even farmers’ markets here, in other parts of Boston, like the lively Union Square Farmers’ Market in Somerville.

I find myself marveling at these markets, admiring their gorgeous selections of produce, their unique atmosphere, and the special insights they offer into the life of their neighborhoods.

But you know what?

I have a stunning Farmers’ Market of my own, right here in Copley Square.

Produce, flowers, baked goods and cheeses, just for starters.

Why go anywhere else?

Sometimes traveling around brings you right back, to focus on the best that you already have, at home.

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O Canada!

Friday, August 10th, 2012

My good friend Kyle from business school and her architect husband David have been inviting us to come visit them and their family in Ottawa for the past several years. “Come skiing, come play tennis, come play golf!” they say. Finally this summer we were able to accept their flattering and long-standing invitation. Yes, we were coming! And we would drive… My husband grew up in Ohio and spent his boyhood summers on Cape Cod, so the thought of a seven hour drive didn’t phase him one bit.

We wound our way northward through some recently visited territory, back up through New Hampshire and into northern Vermont on Route 89, through inspirational forested mountains that provide magnificent blue-green vistas at every turn of the road. The aptly named Green Mountain range is a very beautiful part of the world.

We crossed into Canada (Customs and passports at the border) from Phillipsburg, Vermont, and found ourselves in Phillipsburg, Quebec. All the signs in Canada (Quebec especially) are bi-lingual, so you can immediately pretend to test out your high school French. North of the border, counter-intuitively for me, you leave the fastness of the blue-green mountain aeries, and emerge onto a great agrarian plain. You find yourself suddenly surrounded by quaint farmhouses with Victorian gingerbread trim, handsome painted barns, clusters of silver silos, and impressive fields planted with alternating stripes of corn, wheat and soybeans that stretch towards a distant horizon.

Quebec farmland eventually gave way to highways leading into the tangle of Montreal commuting traffic. We didn’t linger, but continued westward towards Ontario. Along the highway, we began to see yellow hazard signs, warning of moose crossing.

We turned off of Highway 417 before reaching downtown Ottawa, and headed into the leafy preserve of Rockliffe Park, home, in this international capital city, to many official Embassy Residences, as well as to David and Kyle.

That of the American Ambassador, and his Danish counterpart, for instance.

On Saturday morning we headed into Ottawa, to the ByWard Market, to shop for our breakfast.

It was difficult not to get distracted… Then, after a leisurely breakfast of freshly ground coffee, pain au chocolat and fresh berries, we headed back into Ottawa (just a 12 minute drive!) to tour the beautiful city.

David made sure to give us the architect’s tour of Ottawa. Ottawa is a distinctly novel combination of architectural influences and periods. Influences both old,

and new,

(How I wish I had pictures of the starkly modern Embassy of Saudi Arabia, by Canadian architect Arthur Erikson, which sits next to the stunning Aga Khan Foundation’s Delegation of the Ismaili Imamat designed by celebrated Japanese architect Fumihiko Maki . But we saw these in passing from the car.)

And influences French,

and British.

The spectacular Parliament Square

sits atop a rocky outcrop, high above the mighty Ottawa River, and the engineering wonder of the locks of the Rideau Canal.

The interior of the Canadian Parliament Building is just as spectacular as the exterior.

Exhausted by all this culture, we headed back to the ByWard Market,

to shop for dinner.

Once home with the groceries, Kyle and I went for a dizzying bike ride from Rockliffe Park down along the mighty Ottawa River, with the sun in our faces and the wind in our hair.

After dinner, let’s be honest, we sat back and watched the London 2012 Olympics, wishing some sporting success for all of our favorite countries: the USA, Britain and Canada!

Sunday brought more mind expanding experiences. The stunning views of Parliament Square from across the river in Gatineau, Quebec, from the plaza fronting the fascinating Museum of Civilization, designed by Douglas Cardinal.

Inside the Museum of Civilization are wonders aboriginal, architectural and national.

We may have played a round of golf later that afternoon, at The Royal Ottawa Golf Club…..

By then I was pretty tired. Our round of eighteen holes was fun, and hot, and spent in great company. That’s about all that is worth remembering.

We have been invited to come back to Ottawa, perhaps in winter, to try our hand at downhill and cross country skiing, and…

I do know Kyle and David will keep us very busy, and feed us extremely well!

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Our Weekend Trip to New Hampshire, Vermont, NH, VT, Massachusetts, New York, VT & MA

Tuesday, July 24th, 2012

The Boy is away for a month, at the Tuck Bridge Program in Hanover, NH, preparing for his new job in Boston. So we decided we could combine a trip to see him with several other New England visits we had been considering making…. We would start by driving to Hanover, NH and taking him out to dinner at The Canoe Club. Yes, okay. We have fully embraced our new parental role of connecting with our grown children by providing food and laundry services.

We managed a good tour of the Dartmouth College campus, as well as a companionable dinner at The Canoe Club, followed by a delicious gelato at  Morano’s. The Boy shared his first week’s adventures at Tuck’s summer mini-business school. He seemed very happy and confident. Mission accomplished.

The next morning we were off to Woodstock, Vermont, to a farm located squarely in the middle of heaven, to visit My Husband’s honorary ‘Uncle Bill’.

After a lunch of chilled consommé, with chives from the garden, turkey sandwiches, lemonade and blueberries served in the farmhouse kitchen, we went for a tour of ‘Uncle Bill’s’ acres, in his John Deere Gator – a big boy’s ATV. Luckily for me, 86-year old Uncle Bill proved to be an experienced and supremely careful driver, as we climbed inclines, circled ponds, and crested peaks. You’d have to pay money for that kind of fun, if you were at an amusement park.

Here is some of what he shared with us…

There was the hand-built cabin by the fishing hole,

with a view through the pines. (“Though we have to look at New Hampshire,” Uncle Bill joked.)

And the neighbor’s cabin above a cut meadow,

with a view worth camping out for:

We came home past the highest point on Uncle Bill’s property, a rock in a mountain meadow filled with butterflies, looking down upon distant ridges shading green to blue. Words fail me.

Back down into the farming valley. We’re agreed, we are going to go visit Uncle Bill again.

The next day found us in Bennington, Vermont, where we started out with a fabulous fresh herb and sour cream omelet, and a grilled raspberry muffin, at The Blue Benn, one of the world’s greatest diners,

before boning up on local history, like the Revolutionary War Battle of Bennington.

We also admired the local art, like this ‘Covered Bridge Moose’,

which sent us on a hunt through Vermont, and into New York, and back to Vermont, on the trail of covered bridges.

I will have to send this picture of the Silk Road Bridge to the Eldest, since he has traveled the real Silk Road.

And the Paper Mill Bridge,

And the Henry Bridge. (As a British friend of mine said, after visiting this bridge, “Hail to America, where they love their bridges enough to call them Henry”. Oh. And by the way, my British friend is called Henry….)

After this, very much in the Vermont spirit, we had to visit the Vermont Country Store, where we wandered around in a haze of nostalgia, recalling soaps, household cleaners and beauty products of yore (Lava soap anyone? Gee, Your Hair Smells Terrific shampoo?). You can also sample fudge, and cheese and crackers, and dips, and cookies, while you decide whether to purchase a ceramic pie plate or wooden clothespins or a Lanz flannel nightie. Or that’s what I’ve been told…

After this stop, the road somehow took us back to Williamstown, MA,

where The Boy used to be.

Only he’s not anymore.

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Scene Along the Thames

Monday, July 9th, 2012

I have been thinking about the Henley Royal Regatta and trying to analyze its particular British magic. This process has made me think about contributing factors, and how climate, heritage, and national psychology work together to create a particularly British ’sporting’ experience.

Climate, for starters. That is a big subject.

The Brits talk about the weather all the time, and that makes sense because the weather in the United Kingdom changes all the time. Yes, it rains on a majority of days in the UK, but ‘just’ for part of the day. Unlike in the US, a period of rain doesn’t necessarily mean a day will be considered a rainy day. And rain certainly doesn’t mean the Brits will act any differently – as though it actually is a  rainy day. There will usually be patches of sun and cloud in addition to rain, and they will use the best of what they have. Often on this seaward island the day will dawn a cloudless blue, but will be interrupted – as at Henley on this particular Saturday – by what the weatherman would describe as “short, sharp showers.”

Yes, a cloudburst. A drenching rain. But the short, sharp showers might end within twenty minutes, as they did at Henley, and the day will go on as though there had been no rain at all.

In a nod to practicality, you may see long skirts with ‘Wellies‘ at the tailgates in the ‘carpark’ at Henley. The Brits love their country pursuits, so they are well prepared with outdoor wardrobes. This is also the home of the Barbour afterall, the perfect jacket for the odd spot of rain…

Another example of British weather and sporting events: one April I attended an Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race Party in the ‘backgarden’ (said as all one word) of an historic brick townhouse (mid 1700’s) built overlooking the Thames along Chiswick Mall in West London.

While April can be “the cruellest month,” London often experiences a prolonged period of summer-like weather over a week or two in mid-April. It is not unusual to see office workers stripped down almost to their unmentionables, picnicking in London’s parks during a ‘fair spell’ in this early spring weather.

This particular April did bring summer-like conditions, so the attendees of this early season garden party were decked out as if for a June wedding: the ladies in floating skirts with candy-colored kitten heels, the gentlemen in blue blazers with bright ties, pale flannels and the odd Panama seeing early service in advance of the summer cricket season. The British do not miss a chance to enjoy fair weather because they do not get enough of it. So if it is warm and ’summerlike’, and if it is afterall a garden party or a summer wedding, the ladies will wear chiffon or blossom-printed “frocks”, and go sleeveless, with just a bright pashmina to ward off gooseflesh, and be damned to chilly, damp or freezing conditions. This April morning started out bright and blue; the guests took to the damp lawn for a better view of the river, with Pimm’s Cup or a flute of  champagne in hand. There is nothing like a summer ‘tipple’ in the British sunshine.

Dark clouds appeared over the south bank of the Thames, and rolled through the West London suburbs, bringing a drenching downpour and stinging hail. The guests quickly sought the safety of the house, laughing as they pushed through the open French doors into the living room. They stayed indoors just until the rain and hail had stopped. As soon as the sun reappeared, the guests headed back onto the back lawn along the river, heedless alike of damp and cold and the looming threat of another shower. The ladies adjusted bright pashminas around their bare shoulders, and managed the wet grass in their stilettos expertly without sinking into the turf too deeply.

Black clouds weighted with showers -and the occasional band of hail- came and went several times over the course of the afternoon, and the guests fled to the safety of the house and then poured back out onto the lawn repeatedly. No one considered it a challenge to the enjoyment of the day. In fact, it may have added to the sense of fun.

That day, amid much yelling along the banks of the Thames (they can and do cheer), Oxford triumphed over Cambridge.

Yes, there is quite a lot of cheering from the Enclosures at Henley Royal Regatta too.

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